The Evolving Debate Over Fur in Film and Fashion

At September’s Toronto International Film Festival, Piece by Piece, Pharrell Williams’ animated documentary, found itself at the center of controversy. A PETA activist interrupted its premiere to protest Williams’ role as Louis Vuitton’s creative director, highlighting the brand’s continued use of fur and exotic skins. Unlike industry peers like Chanel and Gucci, Louis Vuitton has yet to phase out these materials. Pharrell, in a calm response, acknowledged the activist, saying, “You’re right, you’re right, God bless you,” and even encouraged applause from the audience.

While Pharrell declined to comment further, the moment underscored a broader cultural crossroads. Increasingly, filmmakers, costume designers, and actors are grappling with how fur is used in film, even as the fashion industry largely shifts away from it.

Hollywood’s Changing Relationship With Fur

For years, fur has symbolized luxury in both fashion and cinema. However, growing awareness of animal cruelty has led to a shift in attitudes. A 2022 survey revealed that 73% of Americans are at least “a little concerned” about the use of animal fur in apparel. This concern has permeated Hollywood, with actors like Natalie Portman and Joaquin Phoenix refusing to wear real fur on set.

Studios are also taking action. Disney has banned real fur from its productions since 2017, and costume designers are often encouraged—or required—not to depict fur at all, regardless of material. Even vintage and vegan fur, often seen as ethical alternatives, have sparked debate about whether they perpetuate the glamourization of animal-derived materials.

Fur in Costume Design: Balancing Authenticity and Ethics

Costume designers face a unique challenge in this evolving landscape. Period films often require historically accurate attire, and fur has historically been a marker of wealth or status. Designers like Sandy Powell, a three-time Oscar winner, argue that fur can be used responsibly, especially if it’s vintage and integral to the story.

In Maria, Angelina Jolie’s portrayal of opera singer Maria Callas required fur to maintain authenticity. The production used vintage fur and collaborated with PETA to communicate its ethical considerations. Similarly, the costume designer for Emilia Pérez, Selena Gomez’s new thriller, turned to faux fur to achieve the desired aesthetic while respecting Gomez’s preferences.

On the other hand, some productions still use real fur, raising ethical questions. For example, Anora, Sean Baker’s Palme d’Or-winning film, featured a real Russian sable coat, sparking criticism from animal rights advocates.

The Future of Fur in Film

The resistance to fur in fashion and film mirrors the trajectory of cigarette smoking in Hollywood. Once ubiquitous, smoking scenes are now carefully evaluated due to their influence on audiences. Many believe fur could follow a similar path, with vegan alternatives becoming the norm.

Advances in manufacturing have made vegan fur nearly indistinguishable from the real thing, offering an ethical and visually appealing substitute. Organizations like PETA advocate for these alternatives, emphasizing their ability to convey luxury without harm.

As Hollywood continues to reckon with the ethical implications of fur, the debate highlights a larger cultural shift: the balance between creative freedom, authenticity, and the industry’s responsibility to reflect evolving societal values. Whether through vintage reuse, faux substitutes, or complete exclusion, the way fur is portrayed in film is undoubtedly undergoing a transformation.

Such visuals can further highlight the industry’s journey and inspire continued dialogue.